![]() I use an 8 gallon, which works well for me when I make a 5 gallon batch. Others use 7.5 gallons, which is probably about as small as you can get away with, but you’ll need to watch it like a hawk when it comes to a boil. You may lose some volume to the kettle, if you don’t drain it completely.Ī lot of people use 9 and 10 gallon kettles for 5 gallon batches, which gives you a lot of extra room and allows you to make 6 gallon batches if you lose a lot of volume to trub. You’ll also lose some volume to hops and trub, but that will be variable. Maybe a little less, if you can fine tune your boil down to just enough to keep it rolling.ĥ gallon batch = 5 gallons in kettle at end + Boil-off + Volume lost to dead space + volume lost to grain absorption. You will boil off more if you boil more aggressively than you need. I have not changed the grind of my grains. What I need to know is how many gallons of water I need to start with to end up with a 5 gallon batch? Would a 10 gallon brew pot be a good size to start out with for brewing a 5 gallon batch? I hope my questions make some sense and thanks for any help you can give meīoil-off rate: 1 gallon an hour is a decent assumption, to start. With the new cooler, I am getting brewhouse efficiency around 50, with the 5 gallon tun I was closer to 68. You can always sell the 5 gallon tun with the false bottom when the time comes.Then I need to know my boil off rate, which I never took notice of when doing extract. You are starting out with a small mashtun, and if you plan on upgrading to a larger tun, you’ll probably want to go with the screen. Plus, I have a theory as to why it would be more efficient. An average White Labs yeast vial contains around 100 billion cells of active yeast. For a 5 gallon homebrew, lets use the figure of 192 billion cells. Once mash is complete, vorlauf, collect 5 gallons of sweet wort in a bucket, and pour into kettle. Converting to homebrew units, his ale figure translates to 4 billion cells per point of original gravity per 5 gallon batch (1.048 original gravity would be 48 points or 192 billion cells). I have found that I can just put my strike water in 8-10F hotter than my strike temperature and it will settle. Mash-in, stir to reach mash temp, set timer for 60 minutes. I actually ignore specific heat for my Mash Tun. Transfer all water to MLT to pre-heat for 3 minutes. I’ve never had a problem, and have not had to upgrade to a larger mashtun…yet. Here’s what a typical no-sparge brew day looks like: Heat full volume of brewing water water to 7F above target strike temp. ![]() The line out hose is long enough to reach beyond the cooler handles, so I pull it up through the handle and attach a hand clamp to keep the false bottom securely on the bottom until vorlauf (the grain bed is pretty settled and heavy by then). ![]() I use a stainless tube that runs through a drilled stopper. It’s plastic, and I’ve been very careful not to strip the threading where it attaches to the out tube (a flaw in design, but I think they’re all stainless now, and this could solved). I’ve only had a stuck sparge a couple time where I simply blew into the hose to get it going. Right away I noticed I could cut a “v” shape notch perpendicular to the holes in the end of the down tube to get better flow. Up to this point, my primary brewing setup used a 10 gallon cooler. I’ve been using the same false bottom for a 10 gallon cooler for years and with around 200 batches. The steel insert to adapt for small batches is supposed. ![]()
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